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Each spring, I prepare a list of current favorite restaurants located on the North Carolina coast for readers to use in conjunction with beach vacations. This week's installment focuses on the Crystal Coast. (I would welcome reader advice regarding other beach localities in North Carolina or South Carolina.) Citations below are from menus that were in effect in late May.

Aqua (114 Middle Lane, Beaufort, (252) 728-7777, http://www.aquaexperience.com ) received a full review on May 24. Access that full review or the Wilmington guide from the Web site below.

Sharpie's (521 Front St., Beaufort, (252) 838-0101, http://www.sharpiesgrill.com; reservations accepted) is named after the sailboat design that once dominated Down East water commerce. A banquette topped with plantation shutters divides the dining area from the bar within an open room. The color scheme of aqua, beige and salmon is reflected in wall paint and throw pillows. The kitchen uses Carteret Catch seafood and local farm products almost exclusively.

Sample first courses: Fruits of the Sea ($14), an array of lump crab meat, cold boiled shrimp and oysters; Polenta Encrusted Oysters ($10) with sauted collard greens and Texas Pete vinaigrette; Coconut Encrusted Shrimp ($12) with sriracha (a sweet-hot Thai chili pepper) ice cream a dramatic, original creation that knocked me out when I had it in May.

Sample main courses: House Made Fettuccini ($14) with sundried tomato cream sauce (plus $10 for shrimp, crabmeat or scallops); Grilled Chicken Breast ($22) with truffles, savory bread pudding, green pea and spinach saut and pomegranate puree; Pan Seared Scallops ($30) with fried leeks, asparagus tips, whipped potatoes and saffron leek sauce; Sesame Tuna ($24) with tamari glaze and wasabi cream, plus seaweed salad and jasmine rice; grilled meats ($22-$34).

Windansea (208 Evans St., Morehead City, (252) 247-3000; reservations accepted) is small and cozy, located just off the waterfront. The intimate setting provides a window into some individualistic culinary experiences.

Starters that caught my eye: Seared Sea Scallops ($11.35) in roasted jalapeno cream; Risotto, with Sundried tomatoes and Chevre ($9.25) or Crabmeat ($11.50); and Big Bowl of Carteret County Clams ($10.85). A wood oven bakes pizzas Homemade Italian Sausage ($10.95), Veggie ($10.50), or Custom ($9.95 plus $4.25 for shrimp or $4.75 for crabmeat).

Main course examples: Vegetarian Lasagna ($24.50); Crabcakes ($28.75) with herb pasta; Wood Oven Roasted Grouper ($26.95) with sundried tomato saut; Shrimp and Grits ($23.65) with green onions, mushrooms and bacon over cheddar grits; Ribeye or N.Y. Strip ($35.85) with chipotle peppers; Teriyaki Windansea ($22.45), pork tenderloin with a garlic, sesame and soy glaze, joined by a caramelized onion risotto and sauted greens.

Carlton's (1401 Salter Path Road, Salter Path, (252) 808-3404; http://www.carltonsathome.com ; reservations accepted) serves my favorite Crabcakes ($12/appetizer, $26/entree) baked, setting the inherent flavor of fresh jumbo lump crabmeat in the forefront.

Other recommended starters include Blackened Shrimp and Scallops ($10) with gorgonzola cream sauce, Coconut Shrimp Martini ($12) simmered in a Curry Coconut milk reduction and combined with grilled pineapple, or miniature Beef Wellington ($8) with mushroom duxelle in puff pastry.

One of my favorite entrees is Roasted Vegetable Napoleon ($12), comprised of stacked bell peppers, eggplant and tomatoes with goat cheese and marinara sauce. Hazelnut Crusted Salmon ($19) is based on wild king salmon, crusted with a blend of hazelnuts and Parmesan cheese, topped with a coconut rum glaze. Shrimp Vera Cruz ($18) places the main ingredient in a rustic tomato and caper sauce with olives, bell peppers, coconut milk, and lime juice. Shrimp and Scallop Grits ($19) use two local seafoods in Parmesan cheese grits. Other seafoods are prepared and priced daily, based on fresh catch.

At Bistro by the Sea (4031 Arendell St., Morehead City, (252) 247 2777; reservations accepted; http://www.bistro-by-the-sea.com ), the interior is striking. An atrium in the center of the bar section has been painted as an arbor, indicating this establishment's recognition of the importance of good wines to accompany fine foods.

Preparations are usually based on local ingredients, often with Asian, maybe Italian, influences.

The Crab Bisque ($6.25/cup, $7.75/bowl) is to die for. Japanese Bento Box ($12.95) contains chilled peppercorn and sesame seed crusted tuna, with wasabi, teriyaki and Chablis dill sauces. Roasted Peppers and Sweet Italian Sausage ($5.95) and Fresh Basil, Tomato and Buffalo Mozzarella ($9.95) lend a hearty side to the starter selections.

Bistro Style Shrimp and Grits ($13.95) is a fairly low-priced, but delicious entree. Steaks (market price) and Calves Liver ($15.95) are recommended, too. Sauted Almond Encrusted Chicken Breast ($16.95) in hazelnut cream sauce has to be tasted to be believed. The specialty of the house, of course, is local seafoods (priced daily).

Front Street Grill at Stillwater (300 Front St., Beaufort, (252) 728-4956; reservations accepted) captures the essence of the Carolina coast. From panoramic picture windows, view Taylor's Creek, whose lazy motion generates the "stillwater" subtitle for the restaurant. The cuisine blends N.C. traditions and ingredients with Asian and Caribbean influences.

Small plates include Baked Oysters ($12) with smoked bacon, spinach and lemon aioli; Crab Spring Rolls ($12) with orange sweet chili dipping sauce; Bahamian Conch Fritters ($12) with sweet pepper mayonnaise (these have attracted a justifiable following); Pepper Seared Tuna Sashimi ($12) with lemon dressing, seaweed salad and sriracha aioli; House Made Pimiento Cheese ($9) with lavosh crackers and pickled okra; and Jerk Grilled Shrimp ($12) with pineapple, arugula, pickled red onions and citrus curry vinaigrette. I combined the latter with Hot Chips ($7) homemade, with blue cheese dip which, I warn, can be addictive, on my most recent visit.

Big Plates: local fresh seafoods (priced daily); Grilled Cajun Spiced Tuna ($25) with Creole vinaigrette, cucumber tomato salad and jasmine rice; Pan Seared Carolina Crabcakes ($25) with scampi sauce, jasmine rice and chive oil; Herb Roasted Free Range Chicken ($21) with stone ground cheddar grits, shallot sauce, and fried spinach; Grilled BBQ Pork Rib Chop ($27) with Chinese mustard, jasmine rice, and fried okra; and Smoked Bacon Cheese Burger ($14), which includes those addictive chips.

A patio and bar with seating on the water is open all afternoon for drinks and a small plate menu. More than any other location, this spot oozes the mood of the coast.

Other recommended restaurants in the area (but I don't have room for menu descriptions): Kathryn's (8002 Emerald Drive, Emerald Isle, (252) 354-6500, http://www.kathrynsbistro.com ); Beaufort Grocery (117 Queen St., Beaufort, (252) 728-3899), especially for Sunday Brunch; Blue Moon Bistro (119 Queen St., Beaufort, (252) 728-5800); Gourmet Caf (99 Church St., Swansboro, (910) 326-7114); and William's (711 Evans St., Morehead City, (252) 240-1755).

I'll see you in one of these places, often, during the summer!

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 20 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420 or send e-mail to jbatchelor@excite.com.

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