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Each year, for the first column in July, I look back at the preceding 12 months' (July to June) reviews and engage in a bit of retrospection.

In the past, I have always referred to this period of time as my "physical year," then cited my year's progress with regard to weight loss or gain.

But those remarks have always spawned irate e-mails from readers chastising me for misusing the wording "fiscal year." In fact, I meant "physical." For the record, I've lost about 15 pounds.

Recommended reading: "You: On a Diet" by Dr. Mehmet Oz and Dr. Michael Roizen. Good advice and easy to follow, even if you eat professionally.

I have also tried to assess the year, in terms of ratings assigned: how many low ratings, or 2s, 3s, 4s, and maybe even a 5 (none this past year, alas), adding up to a better-than-usual or maybe not-so-great year, in retrospect. I want to identify themes I think I saw emerge, revisit some especially pleasant experiences, and use that context to respond to a few communications from readers.

Last summer featured a two-part series on high-end steakhouses, which was one of the most enjoyable columns I've ever written, in terms of the research. Each of the four restaurants considered was judged first place in at least one category: Ruth's Chris (800 Green Valley Road, Greensboro, 574-1515) for ambience and filet mignon; Gate City Chop House (106 South Holden Road, 294 9977, http://www.chophousesofnc.com), best value; Fleming's (3342 West Friendly Ave., 294-7790, http://www.flemingssteakhouse.com), best wine offerings; and B. Christopher's (2461 S. Church St., Burlington, 222-1177, http://www.bchristophers.com), bread, salads and overall winner. This was a comparison of the four that I already ranked at the top, so I considered all of them winners.

I am seeing more restaurants place a greater emphasis on value these days. Noble's Bistro (101 S. Main St., High Point, 889-3354), earned 4 stars based on a lower-priced menu of casual items that exhibited exceptional quality and execution. The best meals I had came in a return to the same location several months later, in a full review of the main Noble's. Restaurant J. Basul Noble thus received a 4.5 star rating, the highest I gave all year.

Another theme involved tapas (small plates), a concept that also provides value, since it allows you to eat less and spend less, if you so choose.

My wife and I really enjoyed our meals at Rim (219-A S. Elm St., 230-2055, http://www.rimtapas.com). Aqua (114 Middle Lane, Beaufort, N.C., (252) 728-7777, http://www.aquaexperience.com) uses tapas to offer varieties of local seafoods, most caught by their neighbors on the coast. I also re-reviewed a personal favorite, Solaris (125 Summit Ave., 378-0198, http://www.gettapas.com). All these received a 3-star rating.

This past year also saw the opening of three higher-end Italian restaurants.

Seafoods, in particular, really impressed me when I reviewed Porticello at The Palms (3404 Whitehurst Road, 288-8322, http://www.PorticelloRestaurant.com), which earned another 3-star rating.

Table 16 Fine Italian Restaurant (600 S. Elm St., 279-8525, http://www.table16restaurant.com) came in a notch higher, at 3.5 stars, but this spring, the chef departed, and the new kitchen has introduced a completely new, non-Italian, menu.

The highest rating (4 Stars) among the Italians went to Carmine's (113 S. Elm St., 691-8020). But the chef who cooked all the meals considered for the review, Scott Leard, departed shortly after the column appeared.

The restaurant advised me last week that he has returned, however.

A reader who asked not to be named advised that she could not understand how I gave Print Works Bistro (702 Green Valley Road, 379-0699, http://www.printworksbistro.com) "only" a 3-star rating, reasoning that if ratings range from 1-5, then 3 must be "average."

I replied that if you assume reviewing a restaurant is like taking a test in school, then you start with 100 and deduct points for errors. In other words, something has to be wrong to get less than an A.

I work from a different concept I start from 0 and work up. So it's not a question of something being wrong, it's a question of "how good is it?" A 3 represents the sort of place to which my wife and I are most likely to return when I'm not reviewing. Everything is prepared well, ingredients are fresh and of high quality, and dishes exhibit originality.

To get above a 3, the restaurant has to be exceptional. Restaurants that hold 4 stars have a larger range of choices, in comparison to other establishments, and more elaborate, more creative preparations. A restaurant is likely to get more than 3 stars when I have difficulty making a choice because so many things are appealing, and everything I have is excellent.

So 3 stars definitely does not mean "average."

In fact, two other especially enjoyable reviews to research and write emerged after visits to Emerywood Fine Foods (130 W. Lexington Ave., 882-6971, High Point, http://www.emerywood.com) and Sweet Basil's (620 Dolley Madison Road, 632-3070), both of which received 3 stars. And Print Works' corporate cousin, Lucky 32 (1421 Westover Terrace, 370-0707, http://www.lucky32.com), received 3 stars during the year, as well.

Several readers wrote in the fall to complain that I had not prepared my annual guide to restaurants in the mountains.

I tried to remedy that omission and respond to some other reader requests by preparing guides to the Crystal Coast and Wilmington areas this spring.

Karen Naylon Coffman, however, chastised me for not including Marc's on Market (7213 Market St., Wilmington, (910) 686-6465). I have been to Marc's, and my wife and I both liked it, so it is recommended.

Alas, during the preceding year we lost two old favorites, Revival Grill and Southern Roots.

Watch this space during the coming year for reviews of new restaurants that replace them, if any, as well as returns to establishments that have stood the test of time.John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 20 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or send e-mail to jbatchelor@excite.com.