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Taste of Thai marked its 10th anniversary last fall. Ten years is a long time in the Triad restaurant business, but this establishment has developed a steady following. I count myself among the devotees.

I find the dining area serene in ambience. It's quieter than most other area restaurants, with gentle, soft music, undergirded by waters circulating in a decorative rock pond. A wooden bridge crosses a green plant and floral area, flanked by a large mirror framed in Thai carved wood. Beige walls are decorated with Thai carvings. Greenery abounds. A bamboo garden encloses an outdoor patio.

Another aspect of the ambience is aroma. Scents of curry, basil, and ginger waft freely through the air, the offspring of an extensive menu whose ingredients include lots of fresh herbs and aromatic spices. Most entre descriptions include a recommended wine; I have found the guidance sound, the value solid.

Menu inserts are also included from two former ventures from the same proprietor: Healthy Spice, which lives on in dishes prepared with especially healthful ingredients; as well as Oriental Grill, a higher end restaurant that was originally adjacent to Taste of Thai, but which has now been absorbed into the main dining area.

To experience Healthy Wrapped ($4.95), you place fresh shredded ginger, roasted coconut, chopped shallots, fresh herbs, and peanuts, along with a squeeze of fresh lime if you are so inclined, on fresh collard leaves. This is an adventure in texture as well as flavor. Fresh Rolls ($4.50) are filled with rice noodles, shredded lettuce, carrot, and tender shrimp, accompanied by ground peanuts plus sweet and sour and black soy sauces.

Although my wife and I shared it as another first course, Larb ($6.50) could also serve as a light salad entre. Coarsely ground fresh chicken breast with diced red onion and fresh cilantro tossed in a Thai pepper and lime dressing is presented on a painted, rectangular plate, decorated with a carved carrot flower.

Entrees come with a small salad of lettuce, red cabbage, and shredded carrot, with an exceptionally tasty peanut dressing.

Taste of Thai Delight ($10.95) is the Thai equivalent of a combination platter: shrimp with lemongrass and lime dressing, chicken curry, beef kung pao pot roast (simmered with ginger, bell peppers, onions, and Chinese peppers), sweet and sour vegetables and stir-fried tofu.

Pad Thai Shrimp ($10.95) places tender shrimp in stir-fried noodles with eggs, bean sprouts, green onions, ground peanuts and tamarind sauce. Chabar ($12.95) utilizes grilled shrimp, dabbed with a sweet and sour curry sauce, on skewers. Gang Gari Chicken ($ 9.95) is a chicken curry, bathed in lush coconut milk with potatoes, green beans, and onions. Graprao ($9.95) featured strips of lean beef, trimmed of all fat and gristle, somewhat firm yet flavorful, aromatic from fresh basil.

Pla Rad Pick ($19.95 for my serving; price varies with size and type of fish) is a personal favorite whole red snapper (or flounder, depending on fresh fish availability) fried crisp and scattered with crushed garlic, bell peppers, onion, fresh cilantro, and fresh Thai basil leaves, served in a rich sweetish sauce that blends beautifully with rice.

Steamed broccoli, baby corn, green beans, red and green bell peppers, and straw mushrooms make frequent appearances as side vegetables, along with white or brown rice, of course. I prefer the brown rice more flavor, I think.

Some entrees, including Taste of Thai Delight (described above), come with complimentary dessert. Our serving was Fresh Mango with sweetened coconut milk and sticky rice.

Joe Thoopsamoot, a native of Thailand, is proprietor. He also owns another Taste of Thai in Raleigh (4516 Falls of Neuse Road, (919) 872-0099). He is a gracious presence throughout the restaurant, visiting tables and soliciting satisfaction. Chef Som Song came to Taste of Thai from Gratom Mungsvira restaurant in Bangkok, where he specialized in vegetarian dishes.

I consider Taste of Thai one of our area's most attractive restaurants, based not only on food and ambience, but also value. This is fine dining on a budget, casual yet still elegant in a special way.

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor who has been reviewing restaurants for more than 20 years. You can reach him at P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420 or send e-mail to jbatchelor@excite.com.